WHEEL BITE: HOW TO PREVENT IT FROM HAPPENING TO YOU

WHEEL BITE:  HOW TO PREVENT IT FROM HAPPENING TO YOU

WHEEL BITE: HOW TO PREVENT IT FROM HAPPENING TO YOU

WHEEL BITE: HOW TO PREVENT IT FROM HAPPENING TO YOU
A Deep Dive into the Nemesis of Skate Setups (And How to Conquer It)

There are few things in skateboarding more frustrating than wheel bite. You’re mid-line, popping into a crisp backside flip, about to roll away clean—and WHAM—your wheel kisses your deck and your board stops dead in its tracks. You're either bailing out hard or turtling on your shoulder in front of everyone at the park. Whether you’re skating the butter-smooth ledges at South Pasadena, cruising the transitions at Claremont, or hitting curb setups outside Stix SGV Monrovia, wheel bite is one of those problems every skater has faced at some point.

But it doesn’t have to be that way.

This blog is your full deep dive into what causes wheel bite, how to prevent it, and how everything—from truck height, bushings, wheel size, deck concave, riding style, and even your tightness preferences—can make a difference. Whether you like your trucks loose like Ace riders or tight like a 90s tech skater, there’s something here for you.

 


What Is Wheel Bite, Really?

Let’s start basic: Wheel bite happens when your wheels rub up against the bottom of your deck during a turn or landing, usually causing your board to stop abruptly. Sometimes it’s minor, other times it’s brutal. The causes vary, but most often it comes down to how deep your trucks turn or lean under pressure, how soft your bushings are, and how big your wheels are in relation to your truck height.

 


Truck Height Matters (A Lot)

Let’s break down how the three major truck brands stack up height-wise. Truck height affects how much space exists between your wheel and the bottom of your deck, and more space = less wheel bite.

 

Independent Trucks

  • Stage 11 Standard: ~55mm tall — the tallest of the big three

  • Stage 11 Mids: ~52mm

  • Best For: Bigger wheels, heavy turns, bowls, ramps

  • Wheel Bite Factor: Low, unless you’re rocking super loose trucks or 60mm wheels without risers

 

Thunder Trucks

  • Thunder Team (Standard): ~50mm

  • Thunder Hollow Lights/Hi: ~52mm

  • Thunder Low: ~46mm (discontinued in many places)

  • Best For: Street skaters, tech tricks, pop control

  • Wheel Bite Factor: Moderate to high with 54mm+ wheels unless you’re running tight bushings or risers

 

Ace Trucks

  • AF1 Standard: ~52mm

  • AF1 Low: ~50mm

  • AF1 High: ~55mm

  • Best For: Flowy carving, creative terrain, loose setups

  • Wheel Bite Factor: Moderate, especially since a lot of Ace riders run their trucks loose AF

 

So if you’re skating a lower truck like Thunders with bigger wheels (say 55mm+), you’re definitely rolling the dice with wheel bite. On the flip side, if you’re running Indy Standards or Ace Highs, you’ve got a lot more room to work with.

 

Also, note that wider wheels with a chunkier contact patch (like Spitfire Conicals or OJ Keyframes) may increase your bite zone just because of their girth. Riding slim wheels like Spitfire Classics or Bones STF can slightly lower bite risk.

 


Bushings: The Unsung Hero (or Villain)

Your bushings control how far your truck can lean — not just how tight they feel, but how deep they turn.

 

Durometer (Hardness) Breakdown

  • Soft (78a–90a): Deep lean, more bite risk

  • Medium (91a–95a): Balanced response

  • Hard (96a–100a): Less lean, less bite

Most trucks come stock with medium or soft bushings. If you’re getting bite and you ride loose, consider bumping up your durometer. Some solid options:

  • Bones Hardcore Bushings (in Hard or Medium) for quicker return and tighter lean.

  • Indy Super Cush in 94a–96a range to stiffen up lean without feeling like a brick.

 


How Tight You Ride = How Much You Risk

Let’s be honest — we all have a preferred feel. Some like it loose and surfy, some like it tight and snappy, and others are in the middle tweaking washers and pivot cups like it’s a science experiment.

  • Loose Trucks: Feel amazing on carves and creative terrain (like the weird angled ledges at Memorial Park in Monrovia), but increase wheel bite risk big time unless you’re using higher trucks or risers.

  • Tight Trucks: Keep your deck away from your wheels, reducing bite dramatically. But they kill your turn radius and can feel stiff or robotic — especially if you’re skating bowls or hill bombs like the hills near Sierra Madre.

If you’re a loose truck lover riding low trucks with 54mm+ wheels and soft bushings, you’re in prime bite territory. Add some 1/8" riser pads or go up in truck height (or down in wheel size) to balance it out.

 


Risers, Shims, and Tech Fixes

If you’re not down to change your entire setup, there are a few go-to fixes:

  • Riser Pads: Available in 1/8", 1/4", and more. They lift your board and reduce bite. But they also raise your center of gravity — which can mess with your pop.

  • Shock Pads: Thinner than risers but add a little lift and impact protection.

  • Wheel Wells: Some decks (like Krooked or Welcome) come pre-cut with wheel wells to prevent bite. Others can be custom sanded at your local garage or with help from the Stix crew.

 


Deck Shape and Concave: A Hidden Variable

Boards with steeper concave or thicker plies offer more room for clearance than flat, mellow boards. If you’re skating an 8.5” shaped board with a high wheel well concave, you’ll be less likely to bite than someone on a flat 8.0 popsicle.

A little extra scoop = a little more wheel clearance.

 


The Stix SGV Takeaway: Customize, Don’t Compromise

At Stix SGV, we see every type of setup come through. Some kids ride loose Indys with 56mm conicals and never bite. Others skate tight Thunders with 52s and still get clipped on a sharp carve. The point is — it’s personal. But it is preventable.

So here’s what we recommend:

 

If you love loose trucks:

  • Stick with Ace or Indy Standards

  • Use 53mm wheels or smaller

  • Consider medium/hard bushings

  • Add 1/8” risers if needed

 

If you ride tight:

  • You can get away with lower trucks and bigger wheels

  • Try Thunder Hi with 54mm and hard bushings

  • No risers? Probably still okay

 

If you skate everything and want a middle ground:

  • Ace AF1 Mids or Indy Mids

  • 52–54mm wheels

  • Medium bushings with a single washer setup

  • Optional risers for high-impact spots (like drop-ins at Chino Skatepark)

 


Final Word: You Don’t Have to Just “Live With It”

Wheel bite doesn’t mean you have to settle for a setup that doesn’t feel right. You just have to understand how all the parts work together — height, wheels, bushings, concave, and tightness — and tune it accordingly.

If you're still stuck or need help dialing it in, swing by Stix SGV. We’ll help you build a setup that turns how you want, feels right underfoot, and keeps you from getting bucked mid-line.

Because skating is hard enough without your board trying to body you.

 

Stix SGV has proudly served the San Gabriel Valley skateboarding community since the late ‘90s. With three locations across Los Angeles County, we’ve been deeply rooted in the local scene. Our Monrovia shop has been a staple since 1997, followed by our Claremont location in 2014, and our South Pasadena shop opening its doors in 2022. Our mission has always been simple: to uphold skateboarding culture and stay true to our community.

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